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Topic: Working with arched valance (Read 287 times) |
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Rob
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Re: Working with arched valance
« Reply #5 on: Jul 6th, 2010, 12:35pm » |
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OK, then set the left and right stiles to zero and space the cabinets by the width of your fluted molding. I added some Upper Fillers for blocking at the top & bottom of the fluting.
For a 3" fluted molding set the scribe on the two outer sides to -3 and for the inside sides set it to -1.5 (or a little less for clearance). Also, instead of adding crown to each cabinet and filler I just used an Upper Filler set to zero height above the whole thing. This makes the crown look better since it isn't divided up into a bunch of pieces.
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| « Last Edit: Jul 6th, 2010, 7:51pm by Rob » |
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NickB
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Re: Working with arched valance
« Reply #6 on: Jul 6th, 2010, 4:51pm » |
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Excellent Rob thankyou!!
This is the direction I am going for!!
Nick
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dhg
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Re: Working with arched valance
« Reply #7 on: Jul 7th, 2010, 02:17am » |
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on Jul 6th, 2010, 12:35pm, Rob wrote:| I added some Upper Fillers for blocking at the top & bottom of the fluting. |
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Rob, on your drawing above, if the fillers and fluting were pulled out 3/4 to 1" from the rest of the bookcases, can base and crown molding be wraped around the fillers on the exposed 3 sides?
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Rob
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Re: Working with arched valance
« Reply #8 on: Jul 7th, 2010, 03:55am » |
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on Jul 7th, 2010, 02:17am, dhg wrote:| Rob, on your drawing above, if the fillers and fluting were pulled out 3/4 to 1" from the rest of the bookcases, can base and crown molding be wraped around the fillers on the exposed 3 sides? |
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Sure, though I usually keep the fluting back a little.
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dhg
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Re: Working with arched valance
« Reply #9 on: Jul 7th, 2010, 09:47am » |
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Thanks Rob, that's exactly what I was looking for.
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