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Topic: Ladder frame - base cab's (Read 3447 times) |
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jackmanjls
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Ladder frame - base cab's
« Thread started on: Jul 11th, 2011, 4:53pm » |
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I was viewing some youtube vids on cabinet construction to get some ideas. The presenter talked about a ladder frame for base cabs. He said that the advantage is in leveling the base cabs.
Does anyone have any other options that I might consider?
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Abu
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Re: Ladder frame - base cab's
« Reply #1 on: Jul 11th, 2011, 10:09pm » |
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When building cabinets there are really only two options: ladder frames or boxes with full length side panels.
Ladder frames I guess do make leveling easier but then there's the extra work of creating the ladder frames. I was taught to build full side panel cabinets and have been doing so for a long time without any problems. Ocassionally I'll use ladder frames for islands or special situations.
In my opinion it comes down to what method you prefer, develop that method to where you get consistent and productive results, and roll with it.
Good luck with which ever method you choose.
Tony
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| « Last Edit: Jul 11th, 2011, 10:39pm by Abu » |
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jackmanjls
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Re: Ladder frame - base cab's
« Reply #2 on: Jul 12th, 2011, 06:28am » |
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Abu, thanks for the response.
This is my first set of cabs. I'm just an average with woodworking skills trying to save a buck.
I am not sure how to approach the toe kick issue. Have been looking around on the inet for tips. In my google search I've found a reference to "floating toe kick", do you know what that is? If so, can you explain?
You said: When building cabinets there are really only two options: ladder frames or boxes with full length side panels.
Let's assume that I use the "boxes with full length side panels" approach. If my floor for the base is not level then do I shim the cabs to get level. If I do shim then there will be a gap between floor and bottom of cab, how do the pros compensate for that gap?
Thanks,
Jackman
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BrettA
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Re: Ladder frame - base cab's
« Reply #3 on: Jul 12th, 2011, 1:33pm » |
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The kitchen that I am finishing has a separate base made out of 3/4 inch plywood, the same height as the toe-kick would have been. It makes leveling and shimming the base very simple as opposed to shimming each cabinet. Once the cabs are installed, then application of a finished baseboard to the exposed face and sides of the the base.
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trulycustom
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Re: Ladder frame - base cab's
« Reply #4 on: Jul 16th, 2011, 10:19am » |
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I have used both methods. I prefer the ladder method just because I have worked on a lot of old house remodels and it is much easier to level the ladder base than each cabinet. I did one house that was out of level almost 3" in a 10 foot run.
You mentioned that when you level each cabinet you might have un-equal gaps between the floor and the cabinet bottom. As BrettA mentioned, this is what the finished toe kick panel (finished base board) covers up. You run the toe kick panel tight to the floor to hide any gaps from shimming. This might mean you have a toe kick panel 3.5" high on one run and another 4" high on another run. As I mentioned earlier I had a toe kick that went from 3.5" to almost 6.5" on the other end of the run and I had to taper cut that piece.
As Tony mentioned, just pick one style and get proficient at it. I learned using a ladder base method so that is what I prefer.
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Abu
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Re: Ladder frame - base cab's
« Reply #5 on: Jul 16th, 2011, 10:35am » |
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As I mentioned in my original post, I use ladder frames for special situations and what Truly Custom describes is DEFINATELY a special situation. Wow!
It would be crazy to try to make full side panels for this situation and still get a really good result. So ultimately ladder frames would be the easiest way to approach this project.
When I first meet with clients I asses the floor level and decide which approach would be best. But because I'm more comfortable with full side panels that's the prefered method for me. But if I see ladder frames would make the job easier and nicer, than so be it.
I've been really lucky and have not had such extreme situations as what Truly Custom describes, and as I'm sure many others have experienced also.
Tony
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| « Last Edit: Jul 16th, 2011, 10:38am by Abu » |
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snookhooked
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Re: Ladder frame - base cab's
« Reply #6 on: Aug 30th, 2011, 09:20am » |
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You will run into those situations where the floor isn't level a lot. I have been doing this for over fifteen years and trust me, it can be crazy at times. I stopped attaching base to cabinets years ago. just much easier to install and level out the cabinets.
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Oldschool
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Re: Ladder frame - base cab's
« Reply #7 on: Jun 17th, 2012, 2:03pm » |
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I use ladder toekicks only. The main reason I started doing it was I can get 3 cuts for side panels from a 96" sheet of plywood. Optimal cutting.
I form and prefinish the toekicks in house for as long a run as I can get. Yes leveling is easy. I then trim the bottom gapping with a 1 1/8 tall molding.
I also indent my toekicks 2" from finished ends.
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